Retinol: the wonder skincare ingredient for extra TLC in January

January 19, 2020

Is your skin looking a bit thirsty and tired, and screaming for some extra TLC this January?

If I told you there was a dermatologically proven skincare ingredient that helps with a whopping number of skin issues – from reducing wrinkles, pigmentation, age spots, uneven skin tone and acne, to ramping up collagen production, brightening dull, deadened-looking complexions and reducing pore size – would you think I was a little bit bonkers? Well, turns out there is an amazingly versatile answer to all these skin problems: retinoid (aka vitamin A, retinoic acid, retinol and retinol derivatives).

With more than four decades of in-depth dermatological studies and research, and over a century of usage, retinol has more than earned its stripes as a wonder skincare ingredient lauded and recommended by dermatologists, plastic surgeons and beauty buffs alike. It can be used at any age (teenagers and women in their twenties can benefit from retinol’s acne-banishing properties) and results can be seen in a relatively speedy time frame. So, are there any downsides to this seemingly magical skincare ingredient that seems to take years off our faces?

Yes, as fantastic as retinol is, it definitely has its potential downsides. So I’d love you to be really conscious of these before you crack open the retinoid! Possible adverse reactions include flaking, peeling, itchiness, redness and skin irritation while using it. Most importantly of all, it can heighten our skin’s photosensitivity. In other words, as much as retinol renews and freshens our skin, it also makes it increasingly susceptible to sun damage, quicker, after its use. The result is our skin is like a little baby’s – its defences are lowered. I’m going to be very stern here and go so far as to advise you not to use retinol unless you are fanatical about your sunscreen use. You could instead turn to the new plant-based retinol alternative, bakuchiol (it needs to be over 0.5pc concentrate to mimic retinol), as bakuchiol has no photosensitivity side-effects. Think of retinol and daily sunscreen (all year round) as skincare twins!

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January is actually a brilliant time to introduce retinol into your skincare routine. Why? There’s so little sunshine that the chance of UV damage while your skin gets used to the retinol is reduced. My advice is to start really, really slowly with a low-dose retinol (a pea-size amount once a week at night), see how your skin reacts and, slowly but surely, build up applications to either a few times a week or even daily.

After making many mistakes using retinol, I’ve realised that applying it once or twice a week (I swap my normal serum for a retinol one) is the perfect routine for my skin.

So why not give retinol a bash this January and see how you go? Good luck!

Six of the best

Best sensitive serum

Many women with sensitive skin ditch retinol, considering it too abrasive, but La Roche-Posay has just launched a retinol and B3 serum that is specifically for sensitive faces. It goes on like a dream, with nary a flaky, itchy patch so far! A brilliant option for women with sensitivities looking to very gently introduce retinol into their skincare. (Note: This is for night-time use only; sunscreen must be used during the day.) La Roche-Posay Retinol B3 Serum, €39, from pharmacies nationwide

Best oil

This is a cult bestseller for a reason. Merging next-gen skin technology with pure botanicals, it’s made with trans-retinoic acid ester mixed with organic, cold-pressed oils to help reduce the appearance of open pores and damaged skin, and fight fine lines. If your skin is especially thirsty, you can nail the benefits of retinol without the dry feeling that can come with using it. Apply at night on a clean face. Allow to absorb before layering any other skin products on top. Sunday Riley Luna Sleeping Oil, €55, from Harvey Nichols, Space NK, beautyshop.ie and cultbeauty.co.uk

Best vegan version

Drunk Elephant is a top ‘clean’ skincare line, created by mum-of-four Tiffany Masterson, its main mission being to eliminate potentially toxic/unnecessary skincare ingredients. Her retinol cream is one of her bestsellers – it combines 1pc vegan retinol with peptides and plant oils to restore bounce, resilience and clarity to skin. I’d recommend easing your way into using this. Start once or twice a week, then build up as your skin adapts. If your beauty budget doesn’t stretch to it, try Super Facialist Retinol+ Anti-Ageing Night Cream (€25.99, from Boots nationwide).

Drunk Elephant A-Passioni Retinol Cream, €71, from Space NK and cultbeauty.co.uk

Best eye cream

For a gentle introduction to retinol eye creams, this gem is a great starting point. I can understand why some women are wary of using retinol in the delicate eye area, but this is a very mild retinol-derivative version that won’t cause dry patches or redness around the eyes. I would start using this once or twice a week and see how you go, eventually building up to daily if needed. Pixi Skintreats Retinol Eye Cream, €26, from Boots, Marks & Spencer and lookfantastic.com

Best mask

If you’re looking for a lightning-quick face refresh and don’t fancy waiting weeks to see results from your retinol use, why not try a retinol mask? This gel sheet mask is a fast (if not long-lasting) shot of clarifying retinol and skin-hydrating coconut water. Just pop it on your face for 15-20 minutes, remove the mask and massage in any serum residue, and you’re good to go. Nip + Fab Retinol Fix Sheet Mask, €9.99, from Boots nationwide

Best alternative

Bakuchiol is a natural alternative to retinol (from the seeds and leaves of the plant Psoralea corylifolia) that has been making huge waves in the beauty world. Why? It has been proven to mimic retinol’s benefits to skin (in concentrations of 0.5-2pc), without the redness that can come with chemical retinol. We can also use this gem during the day as there’s no photosensitivity with bakuchiol!

The Inkey List Bakuchiol Moisturiser, €12.99, from Arnotts, Boots, pharmacies and cloud10beauty.com

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